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Toy trains, real trains, and bad food

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When I was eight years old or so, in the mid-1960s, my grandfather bought my brother and me a West-German-made, H0-scale Märklin model train set for Christmas. Here is the first of many logos in this post:

Figure 1. The Märklin logo

The Märklin logo

As a result of this, I grew up with more hands-on knowledge of the German rail system than the American one, though I didn't make it to Germany for another 20 years. On my first trip to Europe, I used a Eurail Pass to travel all over West Germany, Austria, Czechoslovakia, and Switzerland. A few years after that, I lived in East Germany for eight months and became very well acquainted with its rail system, the Deutsche Reichsbahn, which weirdly preserved the name of the pre-1945 German rail system.

Figure 2. The East German Deutsche Reichsbahn logo

The East German Deutsche Reichsbahn logo

West Germany's system was the Deutsche Bundesbahn (German Federal Railway), or DB.

Figure 3. The West German Deutsche Bundesbahn logo

The West German Deutsche Bundesbahn logo

After reunification, the Bundesbahn rebranded to Deutsche Bahn (German Railway), still conveniently DB, and absorbed the Reichsbahn in 1994.

Figure 4. The unified Deutsche Bahn logo

The unified Deutsche Bahn logo

I was along for this ride.

A distinctive feature of East German train travel was Mitropa, the state company that operated dining cars and train-station cafes.

Figure 5. The Mitropa logo

The Mitropa logo

Mitropa food was awful, at least in the cafes. Late at night, a Mitropa cafe might be the only thing open in East Berlin, serving leathery bread rolls, dubious cold cuts, and poisonous coffee. Over the following decades my Mitropa memories evolved from outright trauma into perverse fondness. When I ran across a Mitropa serving-platter in an antique store, I was thrilled for no good reason. In the same vein, I recently acquired an H0-scale model of a Mitropa dining car at a Berlin flea market.

Figure 6. The dining car

The dining car

Back in Seattle, I dug out the plastic carton containing that old Märklin set. It had been stored undisturbed for decades. I put together some track and tried out the locomotive, which sort of worked, minus features such as headlights and a reverse function. One thing led to another and I ended up taking it apart for cleaning and repair with help from online videos. I also made a plywood base for a modest but permanent track setup, now occupying my underused dining table.

The Mitropa dining car travels its constrained route hitched implausibly to several heterogeneous West German freight cars and pulled by a 1930s steam locomotive. The unfolding plan is to find some more East German rolling stock when I am back in Berlin. East Germany produced model trains, too, and there is lots of used inventory floating around (such as my dining car).

I'm not too interested in the historical deep-dives that obsess a lot of model train enthusiasts, but I have my own personal history in several Germanies, and it might be fun to build a simulacrum of that. The resulting world, confined to a smallish table-top layout, and located in Seattle, would combine:

Vocabulary

This project has required learning some new vocabulary so that I know what the German-language forums and the vending sites are talking about. I knew the practical train things, of course: der Gleis, der Bahnsteig, der Schaffner, der Wagen, u.s.w. I even knew that a Rangierer was a switchman/shunter from reading Uwe Johnson. I had to learn these:

  • die Schranke – barrier

  • die Weiche – switch

  • die Bahnschwelle – railroad tie

  • das Gleisbett – The trackbed, consisting of crushed-rock ballast in real life and a bent-metal base in the Märklin M-Gleis system that I have.

  • der Kontakgleis – In Märklin, a piece of track with an electrically isolated segment of rail that triggers a component when shorted by a passing train car wheel.

  • der Schaltgleis – In Märklin, a piece of track with a mechanical switch that flips forward or back when a train passes, sending a signal to another component.

  • der Haftreifen – An O-ring that provides friction on the drive wheet of a Märklin locomotive.

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